This is the first of several posts I’ll write about New Zealand. Expect recipes, travel tips and plenty of photos—my aim is to convince you to visit.
When we arrived in Wellington to meet our good friends Sandra and Keith (we seem to see them more often than our local friends, meeting up roughly every six months), we were already looking forward to a leisurely morning of sleep. Sandra collected us from the airport, and amid excited conversation—so much to catch up on—she casually said, “Oh by the way, tomorrow we have to get up early.” “What? Early? For what? How early?” “Um, 5:30 a.m.” So much for sleeping in.
As we say in French, “Le jeu en valait bien la chandelle” — it was worth it. We were going hot air ballooning in the Wairarapa.
More photos and chocolate details follow.
The Wairarapa region has developed a lot since I last visited, with many new wineries and rural attractions. On that February morning the wind was light and the sky a perfect blue. A faint mist lingered in the valleys as we drove from Wellington across rolling hills to the launch site. Thankfully Keith, who was driving, stayed alert—unlike some of us who nodded off. After an hour’s drive we arrived a little late, but prepared: we wrapped ourselves in blankets because 6 a.m. was decidedly not tropical beach weather.
What warmed us was the thought of post-flight pleasures: breakfast and a visit to a chocolaterie in Greytown. New Zealand chocolate? Yes—truly delicious and very different from the overly sweet Cadbury variety (no offense to Cadbury fans, but it often tastes too sugary to me).
Before reaching the town we were treated to a beautiful sight:
Hot air ballooning is simply magical. I had never done it before and the experience was unforgettable. Rising gently, the balloon revealed a small world waking up beneath us. From this quiet altitude you spot details a plane never shows: rabbits hop across fields, sheep and cattle lift their heads and scatter—especially after we shouted playful “Moo!” and “Baaah!”—and dogs bark excitedly at their owners in the paddocks. The sunrise added a golden glow to everything. It was a slow, intimate way to see the countryside.
After about an hour in the air we landed and rode back to the meeting spot in the support truck that had followed our flight path. We unpacked a makeshift breakfast of yogurt, bread, cheese and a thermos of hot water for green tea. We spread a blanket and enjoyed that first touch of morning sun—an ideal prelude to our trip into Greytown for a proper breakfast at the French Bakery with fresh fruit juices and croissants. Simple, buttery croissants felt just right.
Next came the highlight: a visit to Schoc chocolaterie in Greytown.
If you believe the best chocolate comes only from Switzerland, France, Germany or Belgium, New Zealand may surprise you. Schoc is a charming, old-fashioned shop where chocolate is carefully balanced and many flavors are thoughtfully original. On the day we visited, a chocolatier was making cardamom white chocolate in the back, filling the shop with a warm spice aroma.
Schoc in Greytown is a must-stop. The small shop welcomes you with friendly staff behind the counter and an open kitchen where you can watch chocolate being made. Small samples are available—presented in tiny drawers—so you can taste before you buy.
We sampled and bought several varieties: chilli dark chocolate (56% cocoa), basil dark chocolate, cardamom dark chocolate, plain dark truffles and a robust 76% dark chocolate. The basil and cardamom stood out for their originality and balance. Prices are not cheap—a typical 100g bar runs around NZ$10 (roughly US$7)—but the quality made it worth every cent. We left happily with several bars and began nibbling immediately.
We returned to Wellington with our chocolate haul. Days passed: we ate more chocolate. The next day, more. We then headed south for a hiking and sea-kayaking trip in Abel Tasman National Park, where hiker’s appetite only increased our chocolate consumption.
Before long our stash dwindled—especially with Sandra’s fondness for chocolate—and it seemed our treasured supply would not survive the trip. Panic! Fortunately, back in Wellington Sandra mentioned Schoc had a store there, and we were relieved. Our chocolate supply was saved.
Chocolaterie in Wellington